Urban Decay’s Feminine eyeshadow palette ($36, UrbanDecay.com) is one of three new palettes (even though there was an earlier palette by this name, using the old formula and different colors) to be released this fall. It features 6 eyeshadows, all from the permanent collection, and a mini-lipgloss. Overall, the quality of the shadows is very good and the lip gloss is average.
The color combo
This is a really nice collection of colors, but I don’t feel like there’s a lot of choice for lid color here. Bordello and Skimp definitely, and AC/DC may work as a lid color on some skin tones (not mine), but the whole bottom row are deeper colors. And Hijack didn’t fit well into any look I could come up with. Teal shadows look great with shimmery golds or light browns – Bordello’s too mauve, Skimp is too pale and matte, and AC/DC is way too pink. The good news is: that’s my only beef with this palette, and it’s partly a matter of taste, so your mileage may vary!
- Bordello is a mauve shimmer with some microglitter. When I applied it over TooFaced Shadow Insurance or Mary Kay’s eye primer, I had maybe four glitter particles below my tear duct by day’s end, which is great (I think I’d need Elmer’s Glue to have zero fallout with glitter, since my lids aren’t oily at all). Without a primer, you’ll get more than that, but it’s still significantly better than, say, Midnight Cowboy. This one needs an extra pass to build up the color. The pigmentation does get there in the end, but just be aware it’s the weakest color in this group (even though it’s still very good).
- Skimp is a satin-matte beige – very, very nearly matte, but it picks up the light in a way that’s not quite matte. It has a peachy undertone. It’s a little more yellow than Freestyle from the Smoked palette. It’s nicely opaque and makes a nice brow highlight. You can also apply it under other colors (such as Lost) to lighten them. Pigmentation on this one is very good.
- AC/DC is a metallic silvery purple that reminds me of jacaranda blossoms when it catches the light. Note the pink undertones on the edges of the swatch – depending how you apply it (which brush, where you’re putting it), sometimes that pink comes out more strongly. It’s a complex color and very frosty, so at first I worried it might tend to change with what else I was wearing in unpredictable ways. But instead, it always seems to blend in wonderfully with other colors. Pigmentation is very rich, and you can blend this one very easily.
- Gunmetal is a deep gray with neutral undertones and significant micro-glitter. The same notes about fallout that applied to Bordello apply to this one. The pigmentation is very solid in a swatch, but if you apply it over a lighter color – say, in the outer corner – the lighter color will affect it noticeably. I find I have to apply it, blend it, and then go apply a little more to get the depth you see in this swatch.
- Hijack is a metallic teal that leans slightly green. The old formula Hijack, found in the Book of Shadows IV, had a tendency to look so dark in some light and so silvery in other light that I was continually frustrated with where to put it – on the lid? As a contour color? The new Hijack doesn’t have that problem. It’s definitely a medium-dark toned color that should be used for contouring or in smoky looks. It performs beautifully, but as I said above, I don’t see a color in this palette that I actually want to pair with it, let alone two colors for a more dimensional look. I’m happy to have it in my collection, but I won’t ever be using it just with other colors from this palette.
- Lost is a warm, golden shimmery brown. Again, the pigmentation and texture is wonderful, and it works very well in a variety of looks. That said, it’s pretty dupeable, especially by other browns in the Urban Decay line.
Urban Decay’s recent palettes have all been re-purposeable. You can remove the shadows from these and use them as makeup bags or to carry a few small items. They contain a strong magnet and a warning not to store credit cards in them, because they might get demagnetized. I would also not carry flash drives or smartphones – the magnet may not be strong enough to affect them, but I wouldn’t take the chance.
The packaging feels like vinyl and looks like tie-dyed purple fabric with black lace thrown over it. It unzips around three sides, and I did not have any trouble with the zipper. It’s similar to the Smoked palette packaging.
The very small sample of Lip Junkie Lip Gloss in Wallflower is a nude pink. It’s very glossy and mildly pigmented (by design). Like others I’ve tried from this formula, it’s good, but I wouldn’t call it great. Wear time is very good, but that’s because the main ingredient is mineral oil, and I think I just can’t help but compare it to Elf’s mineral oil based glosses, and not feel like I’m seeing all that many dollars worth of difference.
The bottom line
These are high quality shadows – even the ones where I found something negative to say. It’s a very nice little collection, and my biggest complaint is just that I can’t find anything else in it that I want to pair with Hijack (but maybe that’s just me).